If you spend any amount of time reading beauty blogs or scrolling through #skintok, chances are good you’ve come across the term “skin barrier” before. While the term calls to mind a big, impenetrable shield that protects your skin from harm, the skin barrier-also sometimes called the moisture barrier-is a bit more complicated than that. It does help protect your skin, but it performs several other important functions, too. But in order for this to work properly, it needs good care; a damaged skin barrier can lead to a raft of skin concerns from dryness and irritation through to premature ageing.
We tapped Michigan-based board-certified plastic surgeon Dr. Jeanne Eyde, and board-certified Mohs surgeon and cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Margarita Lolis, to share all you should know about the skin barrier. Ahead, learn what the skin barrier does, how you can know yours is damaged, and how to care for your skin barrier for resilient, healthy-looking skin.
What Is the Skin Barrier and What does it Do?
The skin barrier, known amongst dermatologists as the stratum corneum, is the very top layer of your skin. According to Dr. Lolis, it’s comprised mainly of dead skin cells and lipids, such as ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids, organized in a brick-and-mortar-like fashion.
According to Dr. Eyde, this invisible shield “serves as protection against the entry of perils such as bacteria and allergens from the environment” that can damage your skin. It also prevents excessive water loss to help keep your skin hydrated, smooth, and healthy-looking. You can think of it as a sort of personal security guard that’s there to protect and defend your body’s largest organ.
How to Tell If Your Skin Barrier Is Damaged
Repeated exposure to stressors, overuse of harsh skin-care ingredients, neglecting moisturizer, and even over-cleansing can disrupt your skin barrier. Having a damaged skin barrier leaves you open to a long list of unwanted skin concerns, which include dryness and dehydration, irritation, sensitivity, and so much more. If any of the following skin concerns sound all too familiar to you and your usual skin-care routine hasn’t helped treat the problem, your skin barrier might need a little extra TLC.
Dry skin: This dryness acts as an indication that your skin is not retaining water as effectively as it should. More often than not, this is because of an improperly functioning skin barrier.
Sensitivity: Already described, one of the most important duties of the skin barrier is to protect your viable skin from external irritants. Damage, on the other hand, lets those irritants in because your skin can be affected by them and may present redness, irritation, or itching. In fact, research has indicated that sensitivity goes hand-in-hand with the dysfunction of skin barriers.
Breakouts: If you’re breaking out more than you normally do, it can be due to a compromised skin barrier, says the Cleveland Clinic.
Flaky peeling skin: Flakiness, peeling, and cracking are signs that your skin is losing more water than it’s taking in, an excellent gauge that skin barrier is overtaxed.
If you’re not sure if your skin issues are skin barrier-related-or if you need help in repairing a damaged skin barrier-make an appointment with a board-certified dermatologist. They will be able to help you get to the bottom of your skin woes and advise you on just how to repair your skin barrier.
How To Repair Your Skin Barrier
First things first: Nothing’s going to fix a blown-out skin barrier in one night. Your skin’s going to repair itself, but that can take some time-up to a few months, depending on your situation. That said, there are ways to help give your skin some extra support in the interim.
“Begin by washing your skin only twice a day with lukewarm water, and exfoliate only once a week,” Dr. Eyde said. Limit using stronger exfoliants such as scrubs or retinoids until skin begins to resurge. Where possible, avoid known irritants, including fragrances or alcohol.
Another necessity for skin barrier repair is skin hydration. “The use of occlusive moisturizers that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or petrolatum [can help in] preventing transepidermal water loss and sealing in moisture,” says Dr. Lolis.
For this, look to a gentle, nourishing option that’s formulated specifically for compromised skin-such as Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Advanced Repair Barrier Cream. This rich moisturizer contains colloidal oatmeal and beta-glucan, which can help support skin barrier function, leaving skin smooth to the touch and appearing healthy. It also helps to soothe and relieve irritation and discomfort, which makes it a great choice for those who experience sensitivity due to a compromised skin barrier. We’re also huge fans of SkinCeuticals’ Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2. This rich cream is formulated to support the skin’s natural self-repair process, improving the appearance of skin tone and texture. If you are really on a budget, then you could try the L’Oréal Paris Age Perfect Cell Renewal Midnight Cream. It boasts a rich, yet lightweight texture that deeply moisturizes the skin, creating the optimal environment for skin barrier repair.